Choosing Your Wedding Rings
How to choose the right wedding ring?
Your wedding ring one of a few things that ends up reminding you of your wedding day for your entire marriage. You want it to last; you want it to be of a decent enough quality to ensure that it doesn’t tarnish or wear thin over the years. That is why generally we choose precious metals: traditionally yellow or white gold, platinum or titanium. Remember; you tend to get what you pay for.
What metal to choose?
If you are the bride-to-be you probably already have your engagement ring so this sets a precedent for your wedding ring. You should look to match it in choice of metal and shape.
Gold
Gold is probably the most traditional metal. You can get a range of carats, traditionally in the UK in 9 or 18 carat. The rest of Europe tends to do jewellery in 14 and 18 carat and you’ll probably find 22 carat in some overseas countries.
What is the difference in carats?
Pure gold is 24 carats, but is too soft for jewellery, so other metals are added. 9 carat gold is 9 parts out of 24 gold and the rest is a mix of silver, copper and other metals. 18 carat is 18 parts gold out of the 24. 18 carat has double the amount of gold in it and is therefore roughly double the price and therefore perceived as being better quality.
Different carats have different hardness ratings and different densities. If you are wearing two or more rings together on the same finger you should really go for the same carat so that one doesn’t wear another more quickly.
Look for a hallmark: this is the guarantee that the ring has been proven to be a certain carat at an assay office; 9 carat’s number is 375 and 18’s is 750). Stamps, where you read ‘9K’ or ‘18K’, are not hallmarks and may not be so reliable.
Yellow gold
9 carat yellow gold has less gold in it than 18 carat and you can see this in the colour difference; 18 carat is much more yellow than 9 carat.
White gold
A lot of people don’t think yellow gold suits their skin colouring so go for white gold instead. White gold comes in all the same carats as yellow gold. White gold has yellow gold in it but has other metals such as palladium in it to give it it‘s ‘whiteness‘. It is normally rhodium plated to give it a nice finish however with time the rhodium plating will wear and you’ll notice the yellow colour coming through. It is relatively inexpensive to get your white gold rings re-rhodium plated, the thicker the plating, the longer it will last. Some manufacturers have managed to create white gold with the right mix of alloys so that they will retain their original colour; this is a real bonus as your rings don’t need to be rhodium plated. White gold prices can vary slightly to yellow gold, but are generally similar.
Rose gold
Rose gold has a pink colour and tends to come and go with fashion. It seems to be getting quite popular again.
Other metals
Platinum
Platinum is a very hard and dense precious metal, it is much heavier than gold and much more expensive. You are really making a sound investment in buying platinum as it will last and wear better than any other precious metal.
Titanium
Titanium is fashionable at the moment. It is ultra light in comparison to gold, but very hard wearing. Be aware that not all goldsmiths will be able to resize titanium rings.
Silver
Silver is really on the fashion jewellery end of the scale, it tarnishes easily and doesn’t wear well with time. You are much better paying a bit more if you can and going for 9ct white gold to achieve a similar look that will last you much longer.
Rings with combinations of different metals
There are countless variations on the ‘traditional’ plain wedding band. You can get rings which have a combination of all of the above metals, you can have white gold with thin grooves of rose gold, you can have titanium with a centre strip of yellow gold...
What finish to go for?
Traditionally weddings rings have a polished finish. Modern looks includes a matt, satin and frosted finishes. Try to choose something that will stand the test of time; you want to like it now and in fifty year’s time. Generally the finish can be changed if you don’t like it though.
What shape ring shank to go for?
You need to consider all dimensions of the ring; the width, depth and cross section. It is nice for a lady’s wedding ring to complement their engagement ring so it has the same or similar dimensions.
‘Flat’ wedding bands are totally flat on the inside of the ring shank, whereas ‘Court’ shaped wedding bands have a bevel on the inside. This makes them easier to get on and off over the knuckle (particularly with wider rings) and they tend to feel more comfortable to wear. You can have a heavy, medium or slightly courted ring depending on the depth of the inside bevel. A heavily courted ring can be hard to get the right size for.
Traditional shapes for the outside of the ring are totally flat or ‘D’ shanked with a curve. There are light, medium or heavy ‘D’s. There are all sorts of variations such as flat in the middle with rounded edges and even concave shanks.
Consider the shape of your finger when you choose the width of your ring. Generally gents’ rings are wider because their fingers are bigger. Proportionally chunkier rings suit bigger fingers and lighter rings tend to complement slighter fingers better. Obviously this is also a matter of taste!
Particularly ladies need to consider how much space they have on their finger for an engagement ring, wedding ring and potentially an eternity ring as well. You may not have space for a 6mm wide wedding ring and similar eternity ring and everyone has a different amount of space between the beginning of their finger and their knuckle.
Fancy shapes maybe your taste, but you need to consider how two or three rings will fit together. Your engagement ring may be a certain shape that means your wedding ring needs to curve around it. When making a wedding band by hand this requires starting with a wider ring shank and cutting the shape out of it.
There is more waste metal in this process so shaped rings generally cost more in materials and labour. Another option is to have a shaped wedding ring cast from a mould which is much less wasteful and therefore can be more cost effective. Some companies offer computer aided design packages so you can have the exact measurements of your engagement ring taken to ensure the wedding ring will fit around it exactly.
This also means that images of your finished ring can be seen before the ring is made.
How to get the right size ring?
The only accurate way to measure your finger size is with a metal ring sizer. Bits of paper or plastic variations just don’t replicate a ring well enough as different shape rings will need to be different sizes to be a good fit.
It is advisable to note you should always be measured with a narrow ring sizer to get the 'ultimate' finger size and then with a wider sizer similar to the actual width of your chosen ring. The wider the ring the bigger it needs to be to get over the knuckle.
It is impossible to have a ring that fits perfectly all year round. It is better to have a ring that is tight in the hotter months when your fingers will be slightly bigger than too loose in the winter when your fingers will be smaller. A good fit means that there is a bit of resistance in getting it on and off. The ring shouldn’t pinch your skin once it is on though. If you don’t have big knuckles you have less to keep the ring on so make sure it fits as snugly as possible without being uncomfortable.
Men often are not used to wearing a ring and particularly if it is a heavy, thick ring they may want it to be a looser fit than it should be. Remember the heavier the ring, the more easily it can fall off. Hand cream can help you get a tight ring on and off; it is a good idea for both the bride and groom to put some on their ring fingers on the wedding day as nerves can contribute to higher body temperatures and therefore swollen fingers! Be aware that lots of people loose their rings on honeymoon; sweat, sun cream and water all make your ringers more slippery.
What stones to choose?
It is popular to have diamonds set into wedding rings. The hardness rating of stones is 1-10 with diamonds the hardest at 10.
Rubies and sapphires are 9 and then other stones are 8 downwards. Most setters will be reluctant to set anything below hardness rating 9 flush into metal as there is always a risk of the stone shattering. The stone can also get knocked or scratch during wear too.
There is much scope for variance in the cost of diamonds, go for the best quality you can afford. Worry less about size and ensure you get the best colour, cut and clarity you can afford. Diamonds tend to sell themselves; well cut diamonds of a nice colour and clarity are beautiful.
Make sure you learn enough about the basics before committing to buy a diamond, just so you understand what you are getting.
If you want to go for other stones take further advice from your goldsmith.
What is the best way to have a stone set?
Generally for wedding rings the stones are set flush into the metal as this creates a safe and very wearable ring.
It is also less likely to detract from the style of the engagement ring. This is a relatively safe way of setting stones as metal goes all the way around the edge of the stone.
As there is no setting per say, the stone doesn’t protrude from the ring shank so there is nothing to catch on things or to get knocked.
Be aware of ‘tension’ or similar settings, the less metal you have around the stone, the less secure it is to sideways knocks.
How to care for your ring
Whatever metal you choose it will wear with time and if you never take your ring off it will wear more quickly, especially if you undertake activities such as housework, certain sports and gardening with your rings still on! Most knocks and scratches can be polished out. It is always advisable to take your ring into a goldsmiths for a check up every few years. You should have settings checked, the shank checked for wear and you can have it polished to bring it back to its original sparkle!
Written by Mitch Lloyd Petraetc © 2006
Your wedding ring one of a few things that ends up reminding you of your wedding day for your entire marriage. You want it to last; you want it to be of a decent enough quality to ensure that it doesn’t tarnish or wear thin over the years. That is why generally we choose precious metals: traditionally yellow or white gold, platinum or titanium. Remember; you tend to get what you pay for.
What metal to choose?
If you are the bride-to-be you probably already have your engagement ring so this sets a precedent for your wedding ring. You should look to match it in choice of metal and shape.
Gold
Gold is probably the most traditional metal. You can get a range of carats, traditionally in the UK in 9 or 18 carat. The rest of Europe tends to do jewellery in 14 and 18 carat and you’ll probably find 22 carat in some overseas countries.
What is the difference in carats?
Pure gold is 24 carats, but is too soft for jewellery, so other metals are added. 9 carat gold is 9 parts out of 24 gold and the rest is a mix of silver, copper and other metals. 18 carat is 18 parts gold out of the 24. 18 carat has double the amount of gold in it and is therefore roughly double the price and therefore perceived as being better quality.
Different carats have different hardness ratings and different densities. If you are wearing two or more rings together on the same finger you should really go for the same carat so that one doesn’t wear another more quickly.
Look for a hallmark: this is the guarantee that the ring has been proven to be a certain carat at an assay office; 9 carat’s number is 375 and 18’s is 750). Stamps, where you read ‘9K’ or ‘18K’, are not hallmarks and may not be so reliable.
Yellow gold
9 carat yellow gold has less gold in it than 18 carat and you can see this in the colour difference; 18 carat is much more yellow than 9 carat.
White gold
A lot of people don’t think yellow gold suits their skin colouring so go for white gold instead. White gold comes in all the same carats as yellow gold. White gold has yellow gold in it but has other metals such as palladium in it to give it it‘s ‘whiteness‘. It is normally rhodium plated to give it a nice finish however with time the rhodium plating will wear and you’ll notice the yellow colour coming through. It is relatively inexpensive to get your white gold rings re-rhodium plated, the thicker the plating, the longer it will last. Some manufacturers have managed to create white gold with the right mix of alloys so that they will retain their original colour; this is a real bonus as your rings don’t need to be rhodium plated. White gold prices can vary slightly to yellow gold, but are generally similar.
Rose gold
Rose gold has a pink colour and tends to come and go with fashion. It seems to be getting quite popular again.
Other metals
Platinum
Platinum is a very hard and dense precious metal, it is much heavier than gold and much more expensive. You are really making a sound investment in buying platinum as it will last and wear better than any other precious metal.
Titanium
Titanium is fashionable at the moment. It is ultra light in comparison to gold, but very hard wearing. Be aware that not all goldsmiths will be able to resize titanium rings.
Silver
Silver is really on the fashion jewellery end of the scale, it tarnishes easily and doesn’t wear well with time. You are much better paying a bit more if you can and going for 9ct white gold to achieve a similar look that will last you much longer.
Rings with combinations of different metals
There are countless variations on the ‘traditional’ plain wedding band. You can get rings which have a combination of all of the above metals, you can have white gold with thin grooves of rose gold, you can have titanium with a centre strip of yellow gold...
What finish to go for?
Traditionally weddings rings have a polished finish. Modern looks includes a matt, satin and frosted finishes. Try to choose something that will stand the test of time; you want to like it now and in fifty year’s time. Generally the finish can be changed if you don’t like it though.
What shape ring shank to go for?
You need to consider all dimensions of the ring; the width, depth and cross section. It is nice for a lady’s wedding ring to complement their engagement ring so it has the same or similar dimensions.
‘Flat’ wedding bands are totally flat on the inside of the ring shank, whereas ‘Court’ shaped wedding bands have a bevel on the inside. This makes them easier to get on and off over the knuckle (particularly with wider rings) and they tend to feel more comfortable to wear. You can have a heavy, medium or slightly courted ring depending on the depth of the inside bevel. A heavily courted ring can be hard to get the right size for.
Traditional shapes for the outside of the ring are totally flat or ‘D’ shanked with a curve. There are light, medium or heavy ‘D’s. There are all sorts of variations such as flat in the middle with rounded edges and even concave shanks.
Consider the shape of your finger when you choose the width of your ring. Generally gents’ rings are wider because their fingers are bigger. Proportionally chunkier rings suit bigger fingers and lighter rings tend to complement slighter fingers better. Obviously this is also a matter of taste!
Particularly ladies need to consider how much space they have on their finger for an engagement ring, wedding ring and potentially an eternity ring as well. You may not have space for a 6mm wide wedding ring and similar eternity ring and everyone has a different amount of space between the beginning of their finger and their knuckle.
Fancy shapes maybe your taste, but you need to consider how two or three rings will fit together. Your engagement ring may be a certain shape that means your wedding ring needs to curve around it. When making a wedding band by hand this requires starting with a wider ring shank and cutting the shape out of it.
There is more waste metal in this process so shaped rings generally cost more in materials and labour. Another option is to have a shaped wedding ring cast from a mould which is much less wasteful and therefore can be more cost effective. Some companies offer computer aided design packages so you can have the exact measurements of your engagement ring taken to ensure the wedding ring will fit around it exactly.
This also means that images of your finished ring can be seen before the ring is made.
How to get the right size ring?
The only accurate way to measure your finger size is with a metal ring sizer. Bits of paper or plastic variations just don’t replicate a ring well enough as different shape rings will need to be different sizes to be a good fit.
It is advisable to note you should always be measured with a narrow ring sizer to get the 'ultimate' finger size and then with a wider sizer similar to the actual width of your chosen ring. The wider the ring the bigger it needs to be to get over the knuckle.
It is impossible to have a ring that fits perfectly all year round. It is better to have a ring that is tight in the hotter months when your fingers will be slightly bigger than too loose in the winter when your fingers will be smaller. A good fit means that there is a bit of resistance in getting it on and off. The ring shouldn’t pinch your skin once it is on though. If you don’t have big knuckles you have less to keep the ring on so make sure it fits as snugly as possible without being uncomfortable.
Men often are not used to wearing a ring and particularly if it is a heavy, thick ring they may want it to be a looser fit than it should be. Remember the heavier the ring, the more easily it can fall off. Hand cream can help you get a tight ring on and off; it is a good idea for both the bride and groom to put some on their ring fingers on the wedding day as nerves can contribute to higher body temperatures and therefore swollen fingers! Be aware that lots of people loose their rings on honeymoon; sweat, sun cream and water all make your ringers more slippery.
What stones to choose?
It is popular to have diamonds set into wedding rings. The hardness rating of stones is 1-10 with diamonds the hardest at 10.
Rubies and sapphires are 9 and then other stones are 8 downwards. Most setters will be reluctant to set anything below hardness rating 9 flush into metal as there is always a risk of the stone shattering. The stone can also get knocked or scratch during wear too.
There is much scope for variance in the cost of diamonds, go for the best quality you can afford. Worry less about size and ensure you get the best colour, cut and clarity you can afford. Diamonds tend to sell themselves; well cut diamonds of a nice colour and clarity are beautiful.
Make sure you learn enough about the basics before committing to buy a diamond, just so you understand what you are getting.
If you want to go for other stones take further advice from your goldsmith.
What is the best way to have a stone set?
Generally for wedding rings the stones are set flush into the metal as this creates a safe and very wearable ring.
It is also less likely to detract from the style of the engagement ring. This is a relatively safe way of setting stones as metal goes all the way around the edge of the stone.
As there is no setting per say, the stone doesn’t protrude from the ring shank so there is nothing to catch on things or to get knocked.
Be aware of ‘tension’ or similar settings, the less metal you have around the stone, the less secure it is to sideways knocks.
How to care for your ring
Whatever metal you choose it will wear with time and if you never take your ring off it will wear more quickly, especially if you undertake activities such as housework, certain sports and gardening with your rings still on! Most knocks and scratches can be polished out. It is always advisable to take your ring into a goldsmiths for a check up every few years. You should have settings checked, the shank checked for wear and you can have it polished to bring it back to its original sparkle!
Written by Mitch Lloyd Petraetc © 2006
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